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Despite the cool spring with abundant rainfall that might cause stress due to excessive waterlogging of young apple trees, the first step is to make sure the trees are alive and not affected by serious diseases. Carefully prune a small branch with sharp and clean pruners. Green tissue indicates the vitality of the tree and efforts should be made to improve its health. If the branch has internal decay or heavily peeling bark, or if the trees have sunken ulcers, it indicates they were infected with pathogens through the soil back in the nursery. These trees should be removed and disposed of.
After digging up, also pay attention to the roots. Soft and brown, discolored roots underneath the bark indicate phytophthora root rot, which may be caused not only by the nursery but also by poorly prepared and waterlogged planting sites. In this case, the next planting should be planned in a new location with good drainage.
If young apple trees are "sad", it may be the result of excessive watering in spring, especially on clay soil. Water displaces air from the soil, and plant roots can drown if they are not adapted to waterlogged conditions. Waterlogging often occurs in poorly-drained soils or compacted heavy soils. Compacted soil can be checked with a screwdriver. If it's hard to push the screwdriver deep into the soil, it's compacted. Drainage can be checked by digging a hole next to the tree and filling it with water. If the water doesn't fully drain within 90 minutes, the drainage is insufficient.
Problems with low survival rates of young apple trees, known as "transplanting disease of apple trees", often occur. This problem can be caused by both biological and non-biological factors, but it is believed that the imbalance in the soil microbial community structure plays a major role, with pathogenic organisms prevailing over beneficial ones.
To help young trees, you can use the beneficial fungus trichoderma, which is an antagonist to pathogenic organisms and a growth stimulant. By spring, the soil is warm enough to activate trichoderma. Loosen the top layer of soil from the trunk to the edge of the canopy and then water the prepared soil with a trichoderma solution. Note that the water should not be cold.
Next, create a mulching ring around the tree to ensure a continuous supply of organic matter. The use of chemical fertilizers on young apple trees is not recommended.
Excessive nitrogen fertilizers can be harmful. It's better to prevent weed growth in the root zone than to use mineral fertilizers for young apple trees. Improving the soil through mulching and weeding is more important than a one-time application of mineral fertilizers.
To create a mulching ring, evenly spread a 5-centimeter layer of mulch under the canopy without touching the trunk. Also, try to introduce earthworms. Add compost in the ring around the tree, topped with wood chips. Don't mix them. The nutrients from the compost will be at the bottom, while the wooden chips retain moisture and suppress weed growth on top.
In the fall, you can add another 3-centimeter layer of mulch. As a result, you'll have a mulching ring around the tree resembling a donut.
It's important for the mulch to be permeable to water and air, so plastic is not recommended. Hay is also not recommended as it contains grass seeds, which can lead to weed growth. Regularly weed around young apple trees 3-4 times a year.
Finally, if you plan to replace lost apple trees, planting should include good drainage. At the base of the apple tree, there should be a 10-15 cm mound (in case of a constant risk of waterlogging, up to 20 cm) sloping gently within a radius of at least 1 meter. For healthy apple tree growth, the soil pH should be between 6 and 7.
It's often recommended to plant slightly higher rather than too deep to account for soil settling. In this case, water and organic matter won't accumulate around the trunk, which can lead to trunk rot if it's below ground level.
